How to Install Window Stays

Author: Carl Benson

Carl is the founder of Suffolk Latch Company, with a background in engineering and over 20 years’ experience in home hardware. He works closely with suppliers and designers alike to develop quality ironmongery that stands the test of time. Read my full bio.

A Step-by-Step Guide to Fitting a Window Stay

Installing a traditional window stay is a manageable job when the casement is in sound condition and the fitting has been selected correctly. The main task is to position the stay and pins so the arm sits naturally, lifts clear without catching and holds the open window at useful positions.

This guide covers conventional peg-style window stays fitted to timber casement windows. Sliding stays, fanlight stays, steel-window fittings and modern concealed mechanisms can require a different method.

If you still need to choose a suitable fitting, browse our Window Stays Collection.

Table of Contents

What Is a Window Stay?

A window stay is an arm fitted to an opening casement window. A series of holes along the arm locates over one or more stay pins, which are also called lugs or pegs. This allows the casement to be held at a selected opening position.

On many traditional arrangements, the stay also rests over the pins when the casement is closed. It can help hold the window in position, but it should not be treated as the main security fitting. A compatible window fastener or other suitable locking hardware performs the main closing and security role.

For an overview of stays, fasteners and other window fittings, read Window Furniture Explained.

Which Window Stays Does This Guide Cover?

The method below applies to many traditional peg-style stays, including:

• Avon Window Stay
• Monkeytail Window Stay
• Peardrop Window Stay
• Shepherd's Crook Window Stay

Fixing-plate sizes, overall lengths and pin arrangements can vary. Check the dimensions and product information for the stay you are fitting rather than using another product as a drilling template.

Before You Start

Open and close the casement before removing any hardware. The window should move freely, close squarely and sit properly against the frame. A new stay will not correct swollen timber, loose hinges or a badly aligned casement.

Check that:

• The stay is suitable for a timber casement window.
• The chosen length fits the available space.
• The pivot plate and stay pins will fix into sound timber.
• The stay can move without contacting the frame, glazing bead or surrounding fittings.
• The screw length is suitable for the available timber depth.
• You have compatible stay pins or lugs for the chosen product.

Protect the visible finish while working. Do not use the stay itself as a lever, and avoid placing tools directly against a polished or plated surface.

Tools and Materials

You will normally need:

• Pencil
• Tape measure or steel rule
• Suitable screwdriver
• Drill and an appropriately sized pilot-hole bit
• Bradawl, if useful for starting the holes
• Masking tape, if you want temporary position marks
• Suitable timber repair material if old holes need attention
• Safety glasses
• The window stay, compatible pins and suitable fixing screws

The pilot-hole bit should suit the screw and timber. It should create enough clearance to reduce the risk of splitting without leaving the screw unable to grip.

1. Remove the Existing Window Stay

If a stay is already fitted, photograph it before removal. Record the position of the pivot plate, stay pins and fixing holes, especially if the existing arrangement operates correctly.

Support the stay with one hand while removing the screws. Take off the arm and pins carefully so the surrounding timber and finish are not damaged.

Keep the old fitting nearby until the replacement has been installed. It can provide a useful reference for orientation and position, even when its fixing centres are different.

2. Prepare the Timber

Clean away loose paint, dust and debris. Existing holes can only be reused if they align precisely and still provide a firm fixing.

Fill unwanted cosmetic holes and allow the repair to cure before sanding and refinishing the surface. If an old fixing point is enlarged, split or unable to hold a screw, it needs a sound timber repair rather than a thin layer of decorative filler.

Allow fresh paint, stain or varnish to dry fully before installing the new hardware. This reduces the risk of marking the finish or trapping uncured coating beneath the fixing plates.

For broader advice about changing old fittings, read How to Replace Window Hardware.

3. Position the New Window Stay

Close the casement and place the stay in its proposed position. On a conventional timber casement, the pivot or fixing plate is attached to the opening section of the window, while the stay pins are fitted to the fixed frame or sill below.

The stay should sit over sound timber and have enough room to lift, lower and move through its full operating range. Use an existing working position where appropriate. For a new installation, test the position before marking any holes.

Hold the stay level and check that:

• The arm does not twist sideways.
• The pivot plate sits flat against the timber.
• The stay clears the frame and surrounding fittings.
• The handle end can be reached comfortably.
• The casement can open to the required positions.

Do not mark the screws until you have temporarily checked the relationship between the stay and its pins.

4. Mark and Drill the Stay Fixing Holes

Temporarily hold the stay pins beneath the arm to establish the correct height. The stay should be able to drop over the pins without being forced or pulled out of line.

Once the position is settled, mark the fixing holes in the pivot plate with a sharp pencil or bradawl. Remove the stay and drill straight pilot holes to the required depth.

Fit the pivot plate using the appropriate screws. Tighten them evenly, but do not overtighten. Excess pressure can damage the screw head, mark the fixing plate or reduce the screw’s grip in the timber.

5. Position the Stay Pins

With the casement closed, lower the stay into position and place the pins beneath it. On a conventional two-pin arrangement, choose holes that allow the arm to sit naturally over both pins when the window is closed.

The pins should be square to the stay and positioned so the arm can lift clear without scraping against the frame. Check the open positions as well as the closed position before marking the screw holes.

Open the casement carefully and test several holes along the arm. Confirm that the selected pin position gives useful ventilation settings without allowing the stay to bind or pull at an angle.

6. Secure the Stay Pins

When you are satisfied with the position, move the stay aside and mark the fixing holes for each pin. Drill pilot holes, keeping the drill square to the timber and clear of the glazing area.

Fit the pins with suitable screws and tighten them evenly. Keep the plates flat against the surface and avoid using excessive force for the final tightening.

Lower the stay over the pins and confirm that each hole engages cleanly. If the arm needs to be pushed sideways or lifted under tension, stop and correct the alignment rather than forcing it.

7. Complete the Final Checks

Open and close the casement several times. Test the stay at different opening positions and then return it to the closed position.

Check that:

• The stay lifts and lowers without catching.
• The arm rests naturally over the pins.
• The casement opens to useful positions.
• The stay does not contact the glazing or frame.
• The fixing plates remain flat and secure.
• The window closes fully and its fastener still aligns correctly.

Once the movement is correct, complete the final hand-tightening of the screws. Wipe the hardware with a clean, soft cloth to remove fingerprints and drilling dust.

Common Window Stay Fitting Mistakes

Using the stay to correct a faulty window

A stay cannot repair loose hinges, warped timber or a casement that does not close squarely. Deal with the underlying window problem before fitting new hardware.

Drilling before testing the full movement

A position can look correct while the window is closed but prevent the stay from lifting or controlling the open casement properly. Test both open and closed positions before making permanent holes.

Fitting too close to an edge or glazing bead

Screws need adequate timber around them. Check the construction of the casement and the location of the glass before drilling.

Skipping the pilot holes

Driving screws straight into hard, dry or narrow timber increases the risk of splitting the frame, damaging the screw or marking the hardware.

Forcing poor alignment

The stay should sit over the pins without sideways pressure. If it does not, reposition the pins or fixing plate rather than forcing the arm into place.

Treating the stay as the main window lock

A traditional stay controls the window position. Use a compatible fastener or appropriate locking hardware for the main closing and security function.

When to Ask a Professional

Consider using an experienced joiner or window specialist if:

• The timber is rotten, badly split or heavily repaired.
• The casement does not open or close correctly.
• The proposed fixing points are very close to the glazing.
• The window is part of a listed building or sensitive restoration.
• The fitting is intended for a steel, aluminium or modern multipoint window.
• You are unsure whether the stay and pins are compatible with the window profile.

It is better to resolve the construction or compatibility issue first than to leave a poorly supported fitting in the window.

Related Reading

These supporting guides cover related Window Hardware subjects:

• Window Furniture Explained
• How to Replace Window Hardware
• Window Inspiration

Conclusion

A well-fitted window stay should move freely, sit naturally over its pins and hold the casement at useful opening positions. The key is to test the full movement before drilling, use pilot holes and avoid forcing the stay into poor alignment.

This guide covers traditional peg-style fittings on timber casements. Always check the dimensions and product information for the particular stay before installation.

To compare suitable designs and finishes, visit our Window Stays Collection.

FAQ

What type of window stay does this guide cover?

This guide covers traditional peg-style stays fitted to timber casement windows. Sliding stays, fanlight stays, steel-window fittings and concealed mechanisms may use a different installation method.

Where should a window stay be fitted?

On a conventional timber casement, the pivot plate is normally fitted to the opening section of the window and the stay pins to the fixed frame or sill below. The exact position depends on the window profile and the stay.

Should I drill pilot holes for a window stay?

Yes. Correctly sized pilot holes reduce the risk of splitting the timber, damaging the screws or marking the fitting. The drill bit and hole depth should suit the screw and available timber.

Can I reuse the old screw holes?

Only reuse old holes if the new fitting aligns precisely and the timber still holds the screws firmly. Enlarged, damaged or misaligned holes should be repaired before the new stay is fitted.

Does a window stay secure a closed window?

Some traditional stays sit over their pins when the casement is closed and help hold it in position. They should not be treated as the main security fitting; use a suitable fastener or locking product where required.

What should I do if the stay does not line up with the pins?

Do not force it. Check that the pivot plate is level and the pins are square to the arm. Reposition the relevant component so the stay drops over the pins without sideways pressure.